Guide · Time of day

How to turn a day render into a night render.

Darkening a render is easy; making it read as night is not. Here is the fast way, and the Photoshop one.

A daylight view, the Lighting Change template opened in arkia, the time of day set to night, then the same view at night. Camera and building unchanged.
Before / after

Same view. Every hour of the day.

A daylight view relit through the nine settings, from dawn to deep night. Camera and building unchanged.

An architectural render in daylight, and the same view relit through nine settings from dawn to deep night with the arkia Lighting Change template — after
An architectural render in daylight, and the same view relit through nine settings from dawn to deep night with the arkia Lighting Change template — before
Before
After
Drag the slider to compare
How it works

The faster method, in four steps

  1. Export the daylight view

    A render or a photo, with windows and lights visible.

  2. Open the Lighting Change template

    Drop the image into the template. It takes one image: yours.

  3. Pick the time of day

    Nine settings on the sun selector, from dawn to night.

  4. Run it, then compare

    Camera, framing and materials stay. Try two or three settings.

Try it here

Try it on your view.

Drop in a render, a viewport capture or a photograph. It opens in the Lighting Change template, ready to run.

Drop your image here

or click to browse · PNG, JPG, WebP up to 10 MB

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9 settingsFrom dawn to night
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The classic way: day to night in Photoshop

The usual route starts by darkening the whole image with a Curves or Levels adjustment layer, then pushing the colour towards blue with Color Balance or a Photo Filter. The sky is replaced or repainted with a dusk or night gradient, and the clouds and sun glare are removed.

Then the building has to be lit from within. Windows are selected and filled with a warm colour on their own layers, often with a soft glow around them; lamps, bollards and entrance lights get small radial glows; the ground and facade near each source receive a warm wash through a layer mask, so the light seems to fall on the surfaces.

It gives you full control over which window is lit, how warm each one is and how much light reaches the ground. It is also a long list of masks per view, and it has to be repeated for every angle of the project.

Why night edits look fake

The most common failure is a darkened day image. The sun shadows are still there, long and sharp, even though no sun is up. At dusk and at night, shadows are soft or absent, and the light comes from the sky and from artificial sources. If the original shadows survive, the image reads as dim daylight.

The second is windows and fixtures. Dark windows on a night view look like an empty building; windows that are all the same flat yellow look pasted on. Real interiors vary in brightness and warmth, and the light has to spill onto the ground and the surfaces next to the building.

The third is the sky and the colour. A uniformly blue overlay turns everything cold, including the lit windows. At blue hour the sky still has a gradient from deep navy to a paler band at the horizon, and the contrast between cold outside and warm inside is what makes the image work.

Which time of day to choose

Full night is not always the right brief. Blue hour, just after sunset, shows the facade, the surroundings and the glowing interior at once, which makes it a natural first choice for an evening view. The darkest setting is moodier: a near-black sky, with the building defined by its own light.

Golden hour and the dusk setting are useful when the aim is a warmer or more dramatic day view rather than night. A good test is to run the same view at Golden hour, Blue hour and the darkest setting and compare them at the size they will be seen.

Whatever the setting, check that the lit areas make sense for the project: a night view should light the entrance, the circulation and the windows that matter, not every room equally.

When to keep the manual day-to-night

Keep the manual method when you need control over the light itself: one specific window lit and the others dark, a precise colour temperature, a lamp placed where it does not exist in the render, or a lighting design that has to match a drawing.

Use the template when you want to see how a view reads at several times of day, to produce an evening variant of each view of a project, or to get a base you can still correct in Photoshop afterwards. Heavily textured CG renders can show small inconsistencies on fine surfaces during dramatic light changes, so zoom in on a detail that matters. If your view starts as a 3D model that is not rendered yet, the SketchUp page at /for/sketchup shows how to export a view and turn it into a photoreal render first.

The steps in detail

  1. Export the daylight view

    Use a render or a photograph of the building, with the glazing and any lamps or fixtures visible. The template only lights what already exists in the image, so a view where windows and lights are modelled gives the most convincing night.

  2. Open the Lighting Change template

    Drop the image into the widget on this page, or open the Lighting Change template. It takes one image: yours.

  3. Pick the time of day

    The sun selector has nine settings, from Dawn, Sunrise, Mid-morning, Zenith, Early afternoon and Golden hour through dusk and Blue hour to night. For a night view that still shows the facade, Blue hour keeps a deep blue sky with the building lit from inside; the last setting, the darkest, goes to a near-black sky with warm windows.

  4. Run it, then compare

    The camera, framing, buildings and materials stay as they are; the sun, sky, shadows and atmosphere change. Run the same view at two or three settings to see which one carries the project, then keep that version.

Questions

Frequently asked.

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